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Rwanda - Genocide and Female Empowerment

The Absolute Safari August 13 - 16, 2023



It was 1994 and I was in my mid-twenties and lost. Master's degree in hand but disillusioned with the education system in America. As a nation we were intrigued with the Nancy - Tanya scandal, the death of Kurt Cobain and the trial of OJ Simpson. We watched Shawshank Redemption in the theatres, and it was the first season of Friends. An Arab terrorist was found guilty of the world trade center bombing the year prior. And in April a plane carrying the Rwandan president was shot down leading to what would become the Rwandan Genocide.


Quick timeline of events

1990 - The Rwandan Patriotic Front (RPF), a rebel group composed mostly of Tutsi invaded northern Rwanda from their base in Uganda, initiating the Rwandan Civil War.

1993 - In an effort to bring the war to a peaceful end, the Rwandan government led by Hutu president, signed the Arusha ith the RPF.

April 6, 1994 - Habyarimana assassination ended the peace accords.

April 7 1994 - Genocidal killings began when majority Hutu soldiers, police, and militia murdered key Tutsi and moderate Hutu military and political leaders. The RPF rapidly seized control of the northern part of the country and captured Kigali about 100 days later in mid-July, bringing an end to the genocide. During the 100 days close to a million Tutsis were massacred and quarter million women raped.


To truly understand the genocide, I highly recommend watching the Oscar winning movie Hotel Rwanda based on the true story of one hotel managers' decision to house Tutsi refugees.


The first stop of the day was the Kigali Genocide Memorial https://kgm.rw/. In 1994, Kigali’s authorities chose this hillside in Gisozi for mass graves where 250,000 residents were murdered during the genocide. Memorial buildings were put up beside the mass grave. Opened in 2004, the Memorial became the starting point for peace and values education now built into Rwanda’s national school's curriculum.



Four of us decided to take a taxi to the Nyamata Church Genocide Memorial. Over the course of the genocide, 10,000 people gathered here and locked themselves in. As we approached the church, we noticed grenade holes in the doors and alcove. Inside, the pews were covered with red stained, blood-soaked clothing torn to shreds and riddled with machete holes. Between the 14th and 16th of April, approximately 5,000 Tutsis were killed inside the Nyamata Church. The church basement has been converted into a catacomb, coffin after coffin line the room, many not identified. Mass graves are situated behind the church, containing 45,308 genocide victims from the surrounding area.


"We left Ruhengeri with only the shirts on our backs. We had no shelter. A day did not pass when we did not bury a victim of some disease caused by malnutrition or lack of proper hygiene.". Nyamata survivor


After the genocide ended in July 1994, Rwanda was a devastated country. Its basic infrastructure was destroyed, millions of people were displaced, and many surviving Tutsis had lost their families. Many women suffered the consequences of rape and sexual violence. Thousands of children were orphaned and had to fend for themselves. Countless survivors developed long-term psychological problems.


The 30 years since the genocide has brought progressive change to Rwanda. Every Rwandan above the age of thirty is a genocide survivor.



70 percent of Rwanda's post-genocide population was female. Faced with ensuring their families' very survival, women stepped up. Mothers took in orphaned children and organized support groups for widows. We stayed at one of those support centers, Red Rocks Cultural Center where female survivors of the genocide can heal their wounds and empowerment the next generation keeping culture, traditions and stories alive. At the center we learned the craft of basket weaving and bracelet making. We created banana beer from scratch while half the tour group travelled into town to haggle at the market.


Rwandans are no longer separated into ethnic groups. They consider themselves Rwandan, not Tutsis not Hutu.







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