Camino Portuguese - Part 4

The only day I followed the Coastal Route - Esponsende to Viana do Castelo

Over hill, over dale as I hit the dusty trail

I knew that this upcoming part of the Sendra Litorial way was under construction, broken paths where one needed to walk on loose sand and rocks. I made the decision to move inland for the day.

I left my guesthouse on a misty, foggy morning around 8am. I met up with a mother, daughter from New Mexico and found a coffee shop to grab some breakfast. We made our way through the town of Marinhos. Cobblestone street after street, hill over hill. Through many rural towns, each with a church and a cornfield we persevered. The cobblestone was slippery, and our trekking poles were much appreciated.

Then suddenly the country lanes turned into a forest area which followed the river Nievo. Smell of damp earth and eucalyptus brought pure joy. It was there I met up with Tom and Debby, a couple in their mid 60's slowly walking the way. We laughed and cried as each bend in the path was another hill. One foot after another we walked through the towns of Chafe and Anha. Chafe was a great spot to grab lunch and rest my aching feet.

Only 8 more kilometers to go after lunch. Thoughts of a warm shower and many cold beers kept me going. It was definitely the most taxing and physically demanding day on the Camino. And then I saw it the bridge over the River Minho to Viana do Castello. I am so glad I added a rest day.

Viana do Castello is an incredible town to visit. This region dates back to the Mesolithic era including pre-Roman ruins. The town was founded in 1258 and became a trading post, fishing village and military stronghold. I was able to explore several sites including a sanctuary and a hospital church during my two-night stay.

Sanctuary de Santa Luzia has to be the most beautiful church I've visited in Portugal. Built over a period of 55 years and started in 1904. This simple and elegant church made of granite and stone in the roman style. Stands out from all the glitzy gold churches I've seen throughout the country.

Gil Eannes Hospital ship was used between 1955 and 1973. It was stationed in the Great Banks area of Newfoundland and Greenland to support the codfish industry vessels. It was also used as an ice breaker, maritime authority, and mail ship.