Camino Portuguese - Part 2

From City to Boardwalks - Porto to Mindelo

"Alone, It's just a journey

Now adventures, they must be shared"

It's 8:50am on September 1 as I leave my hostel in Porto and take my first step on the Camino. Trekking poles clacking on the cobblestone as I make my way to the waterfront. The weather is overcast and foggy, temperatures hovering in the mid 60's. Which in many ways mirrors my mood. It would have been my dad's 81st birthday. I know how proud he would have been for me to take on this journey. A symbol of the many journeys we take in life.

Porto- The most common starting point is the Se Cathedral in Porto. Built in the highest part of the city, the Sé Cathedral is the most important religious building in Porto. It is located in the Batalha district, next to the walls that protect the city. The construction of the Cathedral began during the twelfth century, but it was rebuilt and renovated numerous times throughout the centuries in a mix of architectural styles. The temple is predominantly Baroque in style, although its façade and the nave are Romanesque and its cloister and one of the chapels are Gothic in style. Porto Cathedral

Finally, after many steps and steep downhills, I reach the River Douro and turn right along the esplanade with views of Vila Nova de Gaia on my left. Under the last bridge and past a bird sanctuary, where cobblestones turn to pavement.

The fog thickens and magically other pilgrims appear as I reach Farolim de Felgueiras lighthouse. Where the river meets the sea,

I leave the city behind. Sandy beaches become rocky and rugged coastline. The wind is howling, and my mind wanders to family. The days exploring Irish coast with my aunt and cousins. The call of the ocean is strong, and it was the perfect time to throw the rock I collected from Ireland back into the sea.

I walk to let go and heal.....

Matosinhos - The rocky shoreline transforms back to beaches as the sun breaks through the clouds. Matosinhos is a charming seaside town known for fresh fish. This also became my first stop. Dropped my backpack off at the hostel. Grabbed lunch and a drink while reading on the sandy beach.

Flexibility - That's the first thing you learn when walking the Camino. Needing to change plans when lodging is sold out. I had originally planned to walk 8-10 miles to the next big town, but everything in my price point was sold out. I planned to wing it, but had to adapt to the peak season, started booking a couple of days in advance.

Misty conditions greeted me as I left the Fishtail Sea House hostel round 9:15am after another restless night sleep. Walking through the city streets, past monuments and the market hall and over the bridge to continue north. More pilgrims with shells hanging from their backpacks joined me on this morning. the wind and mist picking up as the city streets became waterfront. The scallop shell is the symbol associated with Saint James, the patron saint of the way. It has its origins on the sandy beaches along the coastline of Matosinhos. A symbol of protection from pilgrims and sailors alike,

The Camino Portuguese has two main routes with very distinct feels. The central route follows the old Roman cobblestone road. Up and down rolling hills. The coastal route is flatter, but mist and wind can accompany the walk along the boardwalk through sandy beaches and dunes. Cobblestone or boardwalks chose your poison.

Just as I stepped on the boardwalk, Camino magic hit. The skies began to brighten. Beer in hand as I watched the sun set.

Beauty - Woke up to bright blue skies. Gone was the misty fog that plagued, the first few days on the Camino. Walking on the boardwalk, I can hear the surf pounding along the rocks. Endless dunes and white sandy beaches. Through Perafita and Vila Cha where fisherman where shucking oysters. Random churches and signposts pointing the way. And the final stop for the day, the beach town of Mindelo.

Hospitality - You learn right away that it's not how many kilometers you walk each day, but the people you meet along the way. My room for the night was at the Casa da Estrela Albergue, five kilometers off the coastal Camino. The host welcomed eight tired pilgrims into her home with fruit and cheese. Clothes washed and hanging to dry. We cooked and shared a simple spaghetti dinner with lots of wine to soothe the tired feet. We swapped our stories and bandaged blisters. Sometimes all you need in life is to explore new towns, share a great meat and the Buen Camino blessings.